Seder, Temples and Matzah-hungry dogs


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It's over a week past Pesach and I wanted to write to you about our chag. Firstly, the lead-up to Pesach was difficult in that there was a lot to clean and a lot to organise. Funnily enough, we managed to get our home Pesachdic in time to have a Pesachdic Shabbos two days before Pesach itself! There is definitely no shortage of food in Israel pre and during Pesach. About two weeks before the Chag, the supermarkets empty out and clean out at least one isle, sometimes two, and begin to stock them with all the Pesach stuff. It was difficult to know which isles were for Pesach and which weren't because there was such an abundance of food - and many were the same products as for during the year, so in many cases there was no need to change brands etc. Of course, the supermarkets close to our place stocked only badatz and mehadrin hechsheirim, although you really had to read the packets carefully to ensure you weren't buying kitnios. The meat department and frozen meats were all kosher l'pesach weeks ago and they were also very well stocked. There was a large array of ice-creams and desserts as well as piles and piles and piles of matzoh. We bought only machine made shmura matzoh for the whole of Pesach. My shule organised a matzoh-baking at a local matzoh baking factory. For a fee you can bake your own matzohs while their maschgiach supervises. Rabbi Rubanowitz was also supervising and many of the menfolk from the shul formed a "chaburah" (group) to go and bake. The shule made a few dollars out of it but not much. I was the local seller for my area. I sold a few boxes of matzah meal and one or two boxes of matzah. We also bought a box.

We were to have the Seder at Leah and Ben's apartment in Neve Yaakov, Jerusalem. We took a bus from RBS to the central bus station and then a taxi to Neve Yaakov. It was really fun trying to get a large suitcase, double pram and 4 kids into this taxi, but somehow we managed it. We arrived at Leah and Ben's in good time and Ben walked us to the apartment we were to be staying in over the Yom Tov. The family was just leaving as we got there so we got to thank our hosts in person. They were also going away for Seder night. In fact, the people they were staying at over Yom Tov had decided to stay away an extra day. This meant that our hosts also took an extra day to stay away, enabling us to stay an extra night in Neve Yaakov (otherwise known as the Butterfly Effect!) The apartment we stayed in was situated just behind the tripple level shule that Leah and Ben used to leve near (on Kfar Ivri). There was a nice walk down to their new place. It takes about 7 minutes to walk to their place, but the way back up that hill takes 15! I went to the mikvah prior to Yom Tov, as is the custom, and I was very interested to see that it is a highly organised operation. They have an electronic turnstyle. There is a box into which you put your payment, press a button and that releases the floor-to-ceiling turnstyle so that you can enter - very hi-tec. There are about 15 showers and three large mikvaos. Nothing like the little mikvah at the Gerrer Shteible in Carrington Grove!

I went back up to the place we were staying and helped Leah bring the kids and our stuff down to the Simmons'. I then headed off across the road to a little shule for Maariv. From the outside the shule looks a bit like a ramshackle old shed. But inside it is very comfortable. Although there were about 50 men, we barely got a minyan as most of them had already davened Mincha. I think they left home early to get away from the last minute rush! There was quite a long break between Mincha and Maariv during which time I picked up a really interesting sefer on the halachos of the seder night (in Hebrew) and learned through it with Ben who had come at the tail-end of Mincha (he already davened at an earlier minyan). Maariv was lead by a very inspiring baal-tefiloh (chazan) whose davening was full of kavanah. By this time the small shule was full and there was barely a seat left. There is a minhag to hurry home after shule to begin the seder as soon as possible. We tried, but as soon as we had got a little bit of speed up, we were back at the Simmons' already!

The table was set, the candles were lit and the kids were playing happily on the floor...then this one needed a change and that one needed a bottle and the other one needed the bathroom - and *then* we got started! Binyomin was seated royally at the head of the table. I sat to his left, next to me sat Shimi, Leah K was at the other end of the table next to Racheli, then Zvi, Moishe Simcha and Leah S, to Ben's right. Both Ben and I were privaliged to be seated on real couches with pillows and cushions. It really added to the flavour of the seder to actually recline on a couch, as one should (if one has the room). We began the seder and Ben was armed with lollies for kids who asked good questions or those who answered difficult questions. My kids were not shy and had come prepared with plenty of thought provoking questions. At times they gave Ben and I a run for our money (or toffees). Each child had a turn at saying the Ma Nishtanah and even though getting through that section took a while, it was very cute! Ben ran the seder like a true professional, even though it was the first seder he has hosted. I also had my "shtik". When it came time for Avadim Hayinu, I pulled out a poster I had prepared earlier (on Grace Removals butcher paper!) I printed off a picture of Zvi, Shimi, Racheli, Akiva Meir, Ben, and one of myself and Aba. I cut the bodies off the photos, leaving only the heads and drew cariacatures of the bodies with captions. For example, I had a picture of Zvi from his first day at Yesodei HaTorah, carrying a backpack . The caption was something like, "The Mitzrim made me carry this really heavy bag all day for no reason!" The idea was to put our faces on the faces of slaves in Mitzrayim - in other words, this may have been what it was like for us in Egypt (and if Hashem hadn't redeemed us, we would still be there so it *could* have been us!). My next shtick was a bit more dramatic. After we read about the ten plagues, I announced that I was feeling a bit thirsty. I pulled out a plastic cup and very dramatically poured a glass of water. As soon as the water hit the bottom of the cup, it turned blood red! The kids were completely amazed and I announced that I must be an Egyptian! Prior to Yom Tov I taped a piece of masking tape around the bottom of a clear plastic cup to conceal about an inch of red food colouring at the bottom of the cup. I now know what the plague of locusts must have been like because the kids "bugged" me all night asking me how I did it! Shimi wanted to pour the red water (symbolizing blood) into another cup to see if it would change back (like the midrash says it would for a Jew) but I wouldn't let him! The mystery remains!

The rest of the reading of the Hagaddah was really nice with each adult having a turn at reading. The kids asked questions and Ben regailed us with wonderful divrei Torah. In fact, he positioned his shtender with various seforim on it in such a way that he was reclining most of the time (except for those parts where it is not permitted to recline, like during Marror). We ate hand-shmurrah matzah during the whole seder and Leah S prepared an excellent meal. Leah K made the kneidelach (together with Racheli) out of shmurah matzah meal and they turned out absolutely delicious. The kids stole the afikoman and hid it shortly before they dropped off to sleep, one by one! Leah managed to find it under the kitchen table - phew! The rest of the seder went smoothly and we sung all of the songs in the tunes that Ben's family uses. I sort of missed the tunes that we used to sing, but it was nice to learn new tunes.

We finished the seder at about 1.15am, schlepped the kids back up the hill and plonked into bed...

I awoke on time for shule - which was surprising - and davened with Binyomin at the Scheinberg shule not far from his home. I always like davening there. After shule I walked back to my family and helped Leah bring them all down to Leah and Ben's for lunch. We went back to the apartment and shluffed most of the afternoon. Our hosts have a nice library so I learned a bit before heading off for Mincha and Maariv. Since Yom Tov was only one day, we decided to spend the following day (first day Chol Hamoed) in the Old City of Jerusalem. There was an exhibition that I was plutzing to see and I wanted to take the kids, Zvi in particular, to see it. Sometime in the early afternoon we managed to get ourselves together and we caught a taxi from Leah and Ben's to the Old City. The police had blocked off many roads for security reasons and there were major traffic jams everywhere. Our driver dropped us off not far from Jaffa Gate and the walk to the Old City was very pleasant - the cars were stationery but we were moving! It was incredible to see so many people walking through those ancient archways. There is a big mezuzah on the post of the Jaffa gate and all the kids wanted to kiss it. We walked past the ancient Tower of David, and wound our way into the Jewish Quarter along with hundreds and hundreds of other people. I had been learning Mishnayos Chagiga with Zvi, all about the Karbanos we bring in the Beis Hamikdash on Pesach, Shavuos and Sukkos. I had explained to him that people converged on Jerusalem on those three occasions. Now I could actually show him what it must have felt like! The Old City was chock-a-block full of people. I told Zvi to close his eyes and imagine that all these people were buying and selling cattle for Karbanos - I think that it made an impact on him. We made a bee-line for the exhibition I was hoping to see - it's an exhibition put on by The Temple Institute, which is an organisation that researches and builds replicas, scale models and usable vessels for the Third Beis Hamikdash. It was an incredible exhibition. There was a scale model of the Second Temple with marvellous detail and miniature people (this fascinated the boys for ages). We saw: the incence altar, the Kohen Gadol's vestments, the silver trumpets, the harps, the engraved "plates" for the lot they drew for the two goats on Yom Kippur (one for a korban "l'Hashem"and the other "l'azazel"), a miniature scale model of the Holy Ark, a preserved "chilazon" (sea creature used to make the blue dye "techeiles") and, most impressively, a life-size model of the Shulchan (the special table for the show-bread). Disappointingly, the Menora was at a different location and we couldn't see it. One of the most thought provoking aspects of the exhibition were the numerous paintings displayed depicting the many different services performed in the Beis Hamikdash. They were halachically accurate and gave one a sense of having been there during those times. I left with a feeling that the redemption is around the corner. At least, it was enough for us to buy a book about the Kotel from the gift shop!

We then wound our way down to the Kotel itself, with a new perspective and sense of what the Beis Hamikdash stood for. We were very surprised to see that there were a number of shops open that one would have thought should have been closed on Pesach - like a bagel place! Apparently they had kashered for Pesach, but I wouldn't have eaten from there just because it's a bagel place! We also noticed that there were a number of products being sold that were not Kosher for Pesach, which really surprised me. It was very disappointing to see - especially since many people would have been unaware that they might be eating chometz.

The Kotel area, as predicted, was absolutely jam-packed with people. I managed to find a minyan that was starting Mincha and davened *near* the Wall, but without being able to get too close. After Mincha I went to our pre-assigned meeting spot, told Leah that Akiva Meir had a meeting and took him to the Wall. I wanted to introduce him to the Kotel (it's ok, he had a clean nappy!) I managed to find a squishy spot to squeeze into and touched Akiva Meir's hand to the wall and then to his lips. I said a few silent prayers and then made way for someone else to have a go. Akiva Meir was quiet the whole time and his eyes were wide with wonderment. I know why. Apparently babies to the age of 3 (or until they can speak, I can't remember) can see angels - which explains why Akiva Meir can lie there and smile at the white ceiling! With all those people davening at the Kotel, how many angels must there have been flying up to Shamayim to deliver the prayers???

Due to the Wakif's (Moslem religious authority on the Mount) illegal digging on the Temple Mount, a part of a wall perpendicular to the Kotel had collapsed a few months ago. For safety reasons half of the ladies' section was fenced off. This meant that there was even less room for the ladies than usual. Leah tried to get to the Wall but told me afterwards that there was a wall of women 50 deep! She said some tefillos from as close as she could get.

It was soon getting dark and we decided to head off back to the Simmons'. We left the Old City via the Dung Gate and walked along the outside of the Old City walls. The hill kept going up and up and up seemingly without end until we reached its crest after about 15 minutes. The walk became easier as we headed downwards towards a junction. There we had a choice - "walk" the pram up about 150,000 stairs to Yemin Moshe / King David Street and try to catch a taxi there (which would have been pretty easy), or cross a very busy street and try to hail a passing cab. We opted for the second option and managed to wave down a taxi who took us out of the exceedingly busy area and into the peace and tranquility of Neve Yaakov and the Simmons family home. We stayed with the Simmons' that night and headed off for Ramat Beit Shemesh the next day.

It was a mad dash. The deadline was looming and we had a very tight schedule. We had to be back at our apartment by 10.30, change the kids' clothes, pack a picnic lunch and be at the bus by 11.00am. We made it - just. My shule, Shivtei Yeshurun, had organised a picnic and we had booked seats on the charter bus. We were the last to pile onto the bus minutes before departure. The bus was quite full, which was a good indication that the planned itinerary was a good choice. The first announcement that the President of the shule made shortly after we left the RBS area was that the itinerary had changed! Our first stop was "The Hidden Cave". It took about 20 minutes to get there, but the most exciting thing was seeing an old purple bus that someone had converted into a roadside diner. The kids have a story called "The double-decker purple shule bus". OK, it wasn't double decker and the Coke signs on it probably meant that it wasn't a shule bus, but it definately was purple. But I digress...In any case, we arrived at a parking lot that was full of cars. We all disembarked and stood near the bus for a few minutes while we all got organised with prams and bottled water etc. We all trudged up the initial steep unpaved incline, taxing our prams' structural integrity to the maximum...and then the path levelled out and we continued a leisurely stroll for about five minutes. On the way, I detoured off the path towards a spot overlooking a beautiful valley. I asked the kids what they saw. They answered that they saw trees, grass, clouds, hills etc. I asked Leah what she saw and she said that she saw paths and rocks, birds and blue sky. I told them what I saw - the beauty of Eretz Israel! Looking out there across the valley, you could see the wonderous beauty of the Land. Sure, it was made up of trees and rocks and grass, but put it all together and it was one breathtaking vista. I paused for effect and Racheli offered her take on things, "Snakes eat people, yeah, Aba?" That sort of ruined the moment! We rejoined the group and stopped at the entrance to the hidden cave.

The cave really was hidden, aside from the large sign and arrow pointing to "THE HIDDEN CAVE"! There were two parts to the cave. One part was an entrance about one meter high by half a meter across with four steps going down into an underground chamber. The chamber was about five meters wide and the roof was just less than two meters high. There was a lookout onto the second part of the cave. From the outside all you saw was the top third of a tree. It was growing from inside of a deep pit. Stairs lead down into the pit and there was another hidden entrance about half the size of the smaller one. I didn't venture in, but apparently that small entrance lead to another chamber deeper underground which lead to more tunnels deeper under the rock. The parks authority placed reflectors inside the cave so that if you took a flashlight in with you, you could get out again! The exit was into the main chamber, about ten meters away in a straight line. The main chamber (from where the tree was growing) was very deep. Here is the story of the cave: During the time of the Bar Kochba rebellion against the Romans, the Jews used natural caves like this one as hiding places. According to our Rabbi (who was acting as tour guide) there are hundreds of caves in that area which are similar to this one. Of course, during the time of the Bar Kochba rebellion the caves were well hidden by large stones over the entrances (and I don't think the tree was there, either). The exit from the inner cave was to the deep pit with the tree growing from it. That pit was actually a well. The Jews dug down and found subterranean water and they also fashioned "skylights" which were covered by boulders. The boulders were removed to let water in when it rained. You could still see the ancient steps they used and the blocks of stone they carved for chairs and tables. The first chamber that I described was the lookout post. From there you could see through tiny cracks in the stone of the outer wall. That chamber was also large enough to store weapons and it was a quick route to the outside in case of emergency.

After a while climbing through the caves we headed back to the bus for the next stop: a picnic and farm. We arrived at the farm after only 10 minutes and on the way we saw a flower farm - the field was divided into sections and each section had a different coloured flower so it looked like a quilt of colours. The bus parked and we unloaded our picnic things and walked towards a manicured garden overlooking rolling hills as far as the eye could see. There was a reception hall with a 360 degree view of the countryside. We found a nice shady spot under a tree and ate our picnic of matzah and spreads (which is what most people had - what else can you eat on a picnic during Pesach??!) I was wondering why they called this a "farm" until we were nearly overrun by three dogs who had some sort of craving for Matzah! After our meal an announcement was made that those who would like to go horseriding should meet right away at a certain point. I hadn't signed up for horseriding as it was a little more than our budget allowed, but I took the boys for a walk around the barns which were not too far away. In the meantime, Leah was having her own adventure with Racheli, which I will talk about shortly. The farm had about 50 horses which they bred for various reasons. I happened to overhear one of the farmers negotiating the sale of a pony with a prospect. The going rate for a pony is somewhere in the vicinity of 5,000-6,000 shekels. I wonder if the rental contract for our apartment says anything about horses? They also had a large barn with goats and sheep. But the kids mostly loved to watch the horses and the tourists riding them.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch...Leah had to change Racheli. She also had Akiva Meir with her in the pram. The dogs were scaring Racheli and so she decided to go inside to change her. Unfortunately the side-by-side double stroller got firmly wedged in the doorway and she couldn't budge it. Finally she pushed the stroller back outside and carried the two children inside, one by one. Meantime, the dogs who were terrorising Racheli (actually, they were very friendly, but big, and Racheli was scared of them because they kept sniffing her!) managed to sneak inside and made it impossible for her to change Racheli. Leah put Racheli onto a table and had a terrible time chasing the dogs outside. By the time she managed to change her, it was time to board the bus. I managed to take Racheli on a whirlwind tour of the farm, race back to the bus and load up the pram and bags without leaving anyone or anything behind. All the while Racheli kept reassuring herself that dogs don't go on busses.

The following day, Leah's cousins came around for a visit. Michael, married to Betty, is Dodda Chava Morris' son. Their children, Ana and Rony, have met our children before, but my kids didn't speak Hebrew at the time and they don't speak English. It was a bit better this time as the children could communicate, but I think it will take a few more meetings until they warm up to eachother. They spent quite a while colouring in together, which was nice. It was very nice to see Michael, Betty and the kids, but we were only sorry that Dodda Chava couldn't join us. It would have been nice to have a large "family day".

Anton managed to arrive from Tzfas on time to spend time with Michael and Betty. We had a wonderful lunch (including Leah's marvellous chremslach). After Michael and Betty left, Anton remained and joined us for the last day of Pesach. It was a great end to the chag and over the week we managed to consume most of the Matzah that I bought. After Yom Tov, I made Aba's famous Matza Brai, which everyone thoroughly enjoyed. And why wouldn't they? After all, I learned the recipe from The Master! Anton stayed on a couple of days and then headed back to Tzfat. I managed to get all the Pesach dishes put away and we were back to full chometz dishes within about a day. The kids went back to school two days after the chag and they are now back into the swing of regular daily life.